Jun 27 2007

On My Way Home

Published by Toe at 3:49 pm under Cambodia

Sure, there are no landmines in Phnom Penh as most of them are in the countryside. But living in this city could be no less dangerous (and verrrrrrry exciting) with traffic deaths rising sharply with more than four people dying a day in accidents this year. This is according to a report by Handicap International Belgium (HIB) which also states that the number of road traffic fatalities has more than doubled over the last five years and that there were 18 fatalities per 10,000 registered vehicles in 2006.

So you guys must be rolling your eyes thinking, “C’mon Toe, you’re from Manila. You’re used to driving in Edsa, Espana, Quiapo, Roxas Blvd., Makati Avenue. You ought to be used to traffic by now.” Well, since I bumped a moto (what they call the motorcycle, please see this post), I never drive here now. Let me show you why. These are some of the normal sites on my way home from work:

I could topple the passenger of this moto whose seat is the week’s market ration of vegetables:

vegetables

Besides building great temples, the locals are also good at balancing.

balance

I am so afraid I could hardly breathe when these motos and tuktuks (their version of our tricycle… yes, they’re allowed in all the main roads) swarm our car like bees.

swarm

These guys love their chickens so much that they’re taking them out for a joy ride around the city. Uh-oh, has anyone ever caught birdflu by driving beside a vehicle full of chickens?

chickens

Another uh-oh! My chances of getting home are getting slimmer by the minute.

slim

Get me out of this intersection!!!!!

slim1

Sumbo, the elephant, and I keep the same work hours (he gives daily elephant rides in the park) so we always see each other on our way home from work.

elephant

Still not convinced? Check out this video I found in youtube.

For more photos on the streets of Phnom Penh, see this post. But no matter how much I try to describe it or show photos, you just got to be here to know what it’s like.

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67 responses so far

67 Responses to “On My Way Home”

  1. snglguyon 27 Jun 2007 at 6:03 pm

    Hehehe, in a couple of years, they’d probably surpass Manila and Thailand, traffic-wise. Lalo na diyan may elepante pa sa kalsada.

    But then, that’s a sign of progress. A little more than a decade ago, the streets of China’s main cities were swarming with bicycles and motorcycles. Only a few can afford cars then. These days, their streets could hardly keep up with the ever-increasing number of cars and SUVs…

    BTW, re those fully-loaded motorcycles, wala bang law against overloading diyan?

  2. snglguyon 27 Jun 2007 at 6:08 pm

    Oh and do check out this video too… http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ry3lfNg3roA

  3. Ferdzon 27 Jun 2007 at 6:37 pm

    Mas grabe pala traffic and activity sa streets dyan kesa sa Siem Reap. Katakot din parang Vietnam. Natuwa ako sa elephant sa street. Hehe. Such exciting place

  4. karenon 27 Jun 2007 at 7:24 pm

    naaliw naman ako dun sa elephant :)

  5. Ginaon 27 Jun 2007 at 8:39 pm

    Oh,gawd,I needed that laugh Toe! Thanks!

  6. Noypeteson 27 Jun 2007 at 10:00 pm

    Hanep ang resourcefulness ng mga Cambodians sa pag-pagalaw ng mga merchandise nila! Di naman nalalayo sa atin yan. Ika nga “if there’s a will, there’s a way” di ba? Kung nakita mo na sa atin yung home made na di-bearing na mini -tren, kargahan ng pasahero at tubig na gamit sa mga community ng iskwaters sa tabi ng riles ng tren, onli en da Pelipens lang yata yun ah! Toe, tingnan mo yung mga litrato ko nuong bumiyahe kami sa Alaska last year at di rin ako na-lalayo sa pag-karga ng gamit sa likod ng motosiklo tulad ng mga bumbay at Cambodians. http://www.flickr.com/photos/noypetes/

    Hanapin mo lang sa Flickr site ko yung album ng Epic ride to Alaska. Galugarin mo na rin yung ibang mga litrato ko pati na yung mga kuha ko sa Kodakero days ko sa Maynila..enjoy!

  7. piningon 27 Jun 2007 at 11:34 pm

    Good grief! I was sure there’s gonna be an accident but… how’d they do that? haven’t seen a traffic like that in the Philippines, that’s for sure.
    Run for your life Elie (the elephant)!
    I don’t blame you for not driving, btw…

  8. carlottaon 28 Jun 2007 at 5:30 am

    sa first four pictures naalala ko yung mga jeep at maliliit na truck sa probinsya na most of the time overloaded din. mas nakakatakot ata yun dahil dumadaan din sila sa bundok.

    ang cute nung elepante! =)

  9. mommyon 28 Jun 2007 at 8:18 am

    nakakatawa naman!

  10. Gypsyon 28 Jun 2007 at 11:52 am

    Ang exciting pala ng buhay mo jan ah. Hehe. I remember one time when an elephant got out of the circus in Cubao and took a stroll down EDSA! Obviously the motorists wheren’t as blase as their Khmer counterparts! Hehe.

    Wala akong masabe sa mga motorcycle drivers jan kundi–see our skylabs sa Mindanao! Hehe.

  11. raytson 28 Jun 2007 at 1:30 pm

    hala. wala bang traffic lights dyan? ba’t ganun kanya-kanyang takbo. at least sa atin tumatagal ang traffic kase may mga police na nagta-traffic :p yung elepante mukhang sanay na din sa traffic.

    punta ko dyan sa PP! hehe. yung balancing work nila ang galing. pero marami din tayong ganyan sa South, yung habal-habal saka skylab. haneps sumakay dun.

  12. tutubion 28 Jun 2007 at 4:24 pm

    and napapansin ko yung background na mga buildings…para talagang thailand sila at laos

    sana makarating ako dyan

  13. nicehearton 29 Jun 2007 at 7:45 am

    Upon seeing that video, only one word comes to mind – chaos.

  14. Daphneon 29 Jun 2007 at 11:16 am

    Say hi to Sumbo, the elephant for me when you encounter him later on your way home :D

    Stay safe, Toe :)

  15. annon 29 Jun 2007 at 12:10 pm

    Parang nakakatakot makasabay sa paglalakad ang elepante, baka ma out of balance sya at bumagsak …hehehe.

  16. Toeon 29 Jun 2007 at 1:54 pm

    Snglguy, madami ding SUVs dito… Lexus, Pajero, Prado… may mga Hummer pa nga. Yung mga mayaman kc dito, sobrang yaman. But yes indeed, development is quite fast… although parang probinsiya pa rin sa tingin ko. :)

    Ferdz, oh yes… Siem Reap is a sleepy town compared to Phnom Penh. Ang gulo-gulo dito. :)

    Karen, and that elephant is huge! I was quite shocked the first time I saw him. :)

  17. Toeon 29 Jun 2007 at 2:00 pm

    Gina, everytime I see the elephant, natatawa na nga din ako at nawawala yung galit ko sa traffic. :)

    Cge Noypetes, will check out your photos. :) You have to remember though that this Phnom Penh is the capital of the city. Yung nakikita mo… ayan na yung Makati nila. :)

    Pining, accidents are really rampant. 4 people a day die due to the traffic accidents. Oh yes, I’m kind of terrified of driving now since my accident.

  18. Toeon 29 Jun 2007 at 2:04 pm

    Carlotta, but remember these are pictures in Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s capital city. Can you imagine the case in the provinces? :)

    Mommy, you were here… you know how amusing it is. :)

    Gypsy, yes I saw that in the news. :) That elephant was in a rampage. :) Oh no… Sumbo is so cool. :)

  19. Toeon 29 Jun 2007 at 2:09 pm

    Rayts, oo nga… may utang pa kong mga hotel rates. Don’t worry. I’ll e-mail maybe next week. :) About the traffic, you just have to see it to believe it. :)

    Tutubi, oh yes… if you come here, parang maayos at organized ang metromanila traffic. :) I think Thailand is much more developed and Laos naman is more rural. Wala pa ditong skyscrapers like in Bangkok e.

    Niceheart, chaos is indeed the perfect word. :)

  20. Toeon 29 Jun 2007 at 2:11 pm

    Daphne, will high five Sumbo for you (he’ll probably be using his trunk). :)

    Ann, ako din, takot sa elepante. :)

  21. chaseon 29 Jun 2007 at 8:57 pm

    OMG those are real traffic hazards and at the same time I am amaze how they manage to do that. Talking about elephants, I remember that my future father in law was chased by one when my fiance were in Africa before

  22. momoftwoon 30 Jun 2007 at 5:09 am

    This is sooo funny! Finding an elephant in the middle of the road is very common there? I don’t think I can drive there :D

  23. Major Tomon 30 Jun 2007 at 7:09 am

    Looks like Phnom Penh needs a lot of re-engineering about their traffic policies. I can’t believe overloading is so rmapant there when in fact this could be the main cause why road accidents are so bad there. I wonder if the authorities there are contemplating about putting up restrictions.

    By the way, I never thought chickens could be so “loved” that they were taken for a ride over there. That was funny.

  24. vernson 30 Jun 2007 at 8:19 am

    I think I can still drive in Cambodia but I will not try because it entails a huge amount of concentration hehehe :) I prefer to entertain myself with all these sights and have a good laugh instead…

  25. Wilon 30 Jun 2007 at 8:33 am

    I think I saw a statistic once that traffic accidents cause more deaths than cancer or heart attacks…. or something like that. In the US, I think it’s like 30,000 fatalities each year due to vehicle accidents. don’t quote me on that though. thankfully, I’ve only been in one accident…. with another car, that is. I spun my car out once, but that’s another story. :D Anyway, I was trying to merge and I hit the car who was already in the lane. There wasn’t much damage since we were both driving slowly at the time, but I did end up paying for the scratch on his car. Could’ve been worse, I guess.

  26. zherwinon 01 Jul 2007 at 11:58 am

    elephant????

    pantapat ba yan sa mga buwaya sa EDSA? pero seriously natawa ako. naka-encounter din ako sa youtube ng ganyang eksena, this time sa india naman, naku, makakalbo si MMDA chairman Fernando kung sya ang in-charge sa india!

    OT: i accessed your blog on a different computer, if there’s a will, there’s a way hehehe. :D

  27. annamanilaon 01 Jul 2007 at 10:22 pm

    I am not surprised you don’t want to drive in Cambodia.

    In Philippine provinces, I have seen a pedicab with more than 12 passengers packed in, a jeepney with about 35 (including those on the roof). While in fieldwork in Antique working with NGOs, I have gone up hills on board a motorcycle with two other passengers, buti na lang nasa gitna ako kaya more or less safe from falling. Signs of the times, i suppose.

  28. Belleon 01 Jul 2007 at 11:55 pm

    crazy traffic! you don’t have traffic lights at the intersection? i guess it takes a lot of concentration to drive in Cambodia by constantly watching out for those slow going vehicles or animals. geesh, I will be better off walking home.

  29. Abanikoon 02 Jul 2007 at 8:32 pm

    And some of them are driving motorcycles without a helmet. How reckless!

  30. katon 03 Jul 2007 at 1:48 am

    OMG…i think i’d kill someone if i ever drive over there (or manila for that matter!). i learned to drive in the streets of NYC, but it’s like driving in the country compared to the pics you showed us!

  31. snglguyon 03 Jul 2007 at 7:30 am

    Off topic, check out my Tuesday entry. I have something for you…:-)

  32. tin-tinon 03 Jul 2007 at 12:04 pm

    wahahaah! may elephant!!! ang cute! hahahaha :)

  33. Adeon 05 Jul 2007 at 6:45 am

    Except for the elephant, those things we see in The Philippines everyday. Yes, things aren’t so different.

  34. Monon 06 Jul 2007 at 6:18 am

    hahahah gosh maloloko pala ako sa driving sa inyo Toe. Sa intersection sa video, siguro hindi ako makakalampas doon kakaintay kung pwede na ko sumingit.

  35. rhodoraon 06 Jul 2007 at 12:09 pm

    Ay, Inay ko poh! E mas grabe naman pala riyan kesa rine sa Pilipinas!

    Teka, teka.. nakarehistro ba yung elepante? May plate number ba? Aysus! :D

  36. Leahon 07 Jul 2007 at 11:41 am

    Chaotic nga. Parang karnabal, may elepante pa. I wouldnt want to drive there for sure.

  37. rheiboy17on 08 Jul 2007 at 2:28 pm

    toe,

    i had a conversation with one vietnamese colleague here, he told me that motorcycle is their major mode of transportation. what’s with motorbikes in that part of the world – the philippines btw is gaining motorcycles, their so many in the streets these days, and yeah, traffic accidents will definitely rise….. sobra, bigla na lang sila magsusulpiutan… grrrrr!

  38. annamanilaon 09 Jul 2007 at 9:09 pm

    Got a deadline to meet and can’t go bloghopping. Dropped by here to tell you i got a candy waiting for you at my site. :)

  39. JMomon 10 Jul 2007 at 4:14 am

    hi toe! long time no visit. I know I couldn’t drive in Manila, so I know I can’t drive there either. I don’t blame you. Traffic there sure is entertaining though :)

  40. Jigson 11 Jul 2007 at 1:30 am

    Scary! Parang obstacle course! Take care of yourself always! :)

    I came from AnnaManila’s Blog! :)

  41. Japon 11 Jul 2007 at 5:34 pm

    Whoah! An elephant on the road?! That’s pretty scary. It’s possible they can get cranky and start stomping on people, right?

    Anyway, any major city will have traffic problems. Here in Qatar, public transportation is almost non-existent (taxis are few, buses even fewer and there are no tricycles or any of the sort or camels for that matter) but we still get traffic jams and a rising death toll due to road accidents.

    Road safety (and education) should be one of the major goals of any country especially the developing ones. How can the government move if everyone running it are stuck in traffic?

  42. careyon 12 Jul 2007 at 9:39 am

    hmmm…interesting pics. looks like thailand din. they also have elephants in the streets, they consider it as a sacred animal and when people see them on the sidewalks, they feed it with bananas, usually sold by the one taking it for a walk. i usually don’t go near them, am also scared, heheh… my friends told me you’ll get lucky if you feed them w/ bananas though.

    scary din yung 2nd pic, galing nyang magbalance. tsk…

  43. Reyon 13 Jul 2007 at 3:06 pm

    These traders are really living on the edge with these acts. Anyway, yuo should see how they do it in India. :)

  44. Abanikoon 15 Jul 2007 at 12:41 pm

    Update, update!!! :)

  45. Lazaruson 15 Jul 2007 at 5:16 pm

    what if magwala mga elepante at banggain lahat ng kotse? naisip ko lang.

    phnom penh is really an interesting place.

  46. annamanilaon 16 Jul 2007 at 2:20 pm

    I haven’t been bloghopping for a while and I see you haven’t been posting. Are you here or elsewhere? Be okay!

  47. Linguist-in-Waitingon 17 Jul 2007 at 2:00 am

    Katok katok?

  48. SexyMomon 18 Jul 2007 at 12:25 pm

    you make me miss Phnom Penh, too. i also miss some of my friends who are still there.

  49. tin-tinon 19 Jul 2007 at 8:50 pm

    still no updates? lapit na mag-1 month ha

  50. ZJon 20 Jul 2007 at 11:33 am

    Suosdei, Toe.
    Kumusta ka na? Missing in action ka yata.
    Ako nga kahit nag-aaral pa lang mag-drive, takot na… kakaiba talaga ang traffic dito sa PP ano?

    I hope everything is well with you.
    Dami nang naghihintay sa update mo.

  51. Teeon 21 Jul 2007 at 1:50 am

    These photos are amazing! Wow! How do people carry and balance so much? This was so interesting to read. I’m going to have to link you at my new blog called Curious Villager (http://curiousvillager.blogspot.com). It’s a blog about cultures around the world. I would love if you submitted something some day, too.

    Oh – and on my regular blog, Spilt Milk, I’m having a blog contest again.

    The prize this time is a kid’s prize pack including 3 computer games.

    Good luck if you decide to enter!

  52. Toeon 22 Jul 2007 at 5:21 pm

    Chase, now that’s scary… getting chased by a wild African elephant!

    Momoftwo, there’s only one elephant in Phnom Penh. There are more in the provinces. But I still get quite a shock whenever I see Sumbo, the elephant. :)

    Major Tom, a lot of things needs re-engineering here…. hahaha.. :) I think it’s also their state of mind… they have no concept of danger of safety. Haha… chickens going sightseeing before the slaughter. :)

  53. Toeon 22 Jul 2007 at 5:24 pm

    Verns, it’s very funny… until accidents happen… unfortunately, ang daming aksidente. :(

    Wil, good nothing happened to you. I’m sure it would have been much worse if you were both driving fast.

    Zherwin, oo nga… I think it is much much worse in India. May mga sacred cow pa na hindi pwedeng igalaw. :)

  54. Toeon 22 Jul 2007 at 5:27 pm

    Annamanila, haha… lahat yata ng moto dito, 3 ang normal seating capacity. :) And remember, this is the capital… this is not a far-flung province in this country. :)

    Belle, would you believe… no sidewalks? It’s also dangerous to walk. :)

    Abaniko, oo nga… I think it’s because they couldn’t afford the helmets, even the cheapest which is about $14.

  55. Toeon 22 Jul 2007 at 5:31 pm

    Kat, oh I think it’s also difficult to drive in nyc… so many one-way streets. :)

    Snglguy, ang daya mo… I remember we both won that award sometime ago and you didn’t do it. :)

    Tin-Tin, hahaha… nakakaaliw talaga si Sumbo. Kuminsan, naliligo pa ‘yan sa kalye. :)

  56. Toeon 22 Jul 2007 at 5:35 pm

    Ade, hindi naman yata ganyan sa Metromanila. Remember, I work in what is the equivalent of their Makati Business District and this is what I see when I go home everyday. :)

    Mon, pag-pumunta ka dito, ipagd-drive kita… life here is exciting! :)

    Rhodora, hahahaha… you’re so funny… rehistradong elepante. :)

  57. Toeon 22 Jul 2007 at 5:40 pm

    Leah, I use the office driver now. And then I just try to close my eyes and pray… I’m also scared of his driving. :)

    Rheiboy, ooooh… I think it’s even worse in Vietnam… so much more motorcycles there. I think it’s because it’s cheaper that’s why motorcycles are more popular. Most of them can’t afford cars. In the provinces, a lot of people use bicycles.

    Oh thanks Annamanila, will work on it… promise! :)

  58. Toeon 22 Jul 2007 at 5:46 pm

    JMom, oh yes… traffic here is always an entertaining conversation piece. :)

    Oh hello Jigs! Thanks for dropping by! Sorry ha… kadadating mo lang, tapos nagpahinga ako sa pag-blog. Will try to make up for it. :)

    Hi Jap, oh it must be scary to get into an accident in Qatar. Dito din… walang taxis and buses. Those motorcycles are the public transportation. The elephant is only for rides in the park. :) You are right… developing countries should concentrate more on their road safety.

  59. Toeon 22 Jul 2007 at 5:51 pm

    Carey, me too… I refuse to feed an elephant on the road. :) I might run out of luck and the elephant would trample on me. :) I’ve never seen the elephants whenever I’m in Bangkok though.

    Rey, I think it’s much scarier in India.

    Abaniko, hehe… tomorrow. :)

  60. Toeon 22 Jul 2007 at 5:55 pm

    Lazarus, oooo… I don’t want to think about that because that elephant is big. In Siem Reap, there are many elephants in the streets. So far, wala namang nagwawala.

    Thanks Annamanila, just resting… will start again. :)

    LIW, haha… tomorrow, promise. :)

  61. Toeon 22 Jul 2007 at 5:57 pm

    Sexy Mom, come back and visit then. :)

    Tin-Tin, one month na? That seemed fast. :)

    Thanks ZJ. :) Will update tomorrow. How are you? Lapit na ba? ;)

  62. Toeon 22 Jul 2007 at 5:59 pm

    Oh, thanks Tee! I have been on a hiatus from blogging but I’m about to start again. Will surely check out your new blog and of course, also your regular one. :)

  63. Tinaon 25 Jul 2007 at 9:03 am

    that video is crazy! I was so hypnotized watching all the cars and motos and whatnots, that I almost missed seeing the elephant! so the elephant has the right of way there?

  64. hazeon 27 Jul 2007 at 3:35 pm

    This is far worst than Pinas !!! Grabe no wonder there are lots accidents ! I just hope that people should realize discipline is very important on the road ! I’m sure they know it but they need to be obedient too ! Teka bakit nakalabas ang elepante ? HILARIOUS !

  65. Toeon 27 Jul 2007 at 4:58 pm

    Tina, haha… why don’t you and Rusty come over with the kids and visit? Then, you will really know what this is about. :)

    Haze, hehe… that’s a tame elephant. He always walks home from his work giving elephant rides in the park on the streets of Phnom Penh. :)

  66. Jasminon 27 Aug 2008 at 9:32 pm

    this gave me a good laugh….super natawa ako sa traffic …habang nanonood ak nung video…sabi ko vroom…!! hala! eenng!….nakaktuwa tingnan pero nakakatakot din…parang nanonood ako ng kenkoy in action…hehehe…thanks for this Ma’am!

  67. Toeon 29 Aug 2008 at 7:26 pm

    Jasmin, o diba, masaya sa Phnom Penh? ;)

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